Component - Switch: In-line Light Switch (push-button)

I've finally upgraded the homebrew bike light system I started in on two years ago. The light system consists of a headlight, running lights and helmet light. This product is used in the headlight. My primary light is a 30W Philips EnergyAdvantage (24 degree narrow flood) MR16 in an Optronics housing, driven by a 14.4V NiMH battery (4200mAh) from batteryspace.com. At this voltage I'm getting nearly 1200 lumens, in a nice broad pattern that illuminates the roadway very well, and somewhat brighter than the similar 35W bulb that I had been driving at 12V. I also stepped down from 5000mAH (C cells) to 4200 (subC cells) for this upgrade, so even with the additional cell count my new battery fits into a smaller case. After the first 10 runs or so I'm getting 80-85 minutes on a charge, plenty for my round trip commute and exactly what I would calculate based on the battery's rated capacity. My previous battery was very dependable in this manner, so I'm not surprised. Battery is mounted in a CageRocket (thanks to this thread for the suggestion), with hole drilled in the side for a waterproof switch from batteryspace. Connectors are the very rugged "waterproof" ones from batteryspace. Unlike my v1.0 homebrew light project, which used quick-and-dirty but ugly crimp connectors, all connections on my v2.0 are soldered and shrinkwrapped. Approximate cost to build: $140. $15 for bulb, $15 for Optronics housings, $50 for battery, $30 for charger, $10 for CageRocket, $20 for switch, connectors and miscellaneous supplies. And it blows away any commercial bike light I've seen for under $300. This switch was also used on my previous system using a 5000mAh 12V battery in a bike water bottle. For that battery, I drilled a hole in the bottle lid for mounting the switch. Held up great through 2 years of commuting.