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Component - Switch: In-line Light Switch (push-button)
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In Stock
Product ID # 2071
Part Number: BK-SWITCH
Quantity Discounts
| Quantity | Amount |
| 5 to 20 | $4.80 |
| 21 to 50 | $4.70 |
| 51 to 100 | $4.60 |
| 101 or more | $4.46 |
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This switch fits any bike light mount. Use this switch when you are running more than two lights. It will allow you to run lights on a separate circuit from stock lights. Switch is rated for 10 amps. This switch fits in 3/8" hole, and also can be glued on the mounting kit.Perfect for DIY bike light
Weight 3.2 oz (91 g), Base dimension is 18mm(0.7") L x 14mm(0.5")W x 8mm(0.3")H.
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Product Reviews
| (3 Ratings, 2 Reviews) |
Average Rating:
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Nice selection of products and prices, and quick shipping with notification
zerbel
(Livermore, CA )
6/12/2012 5:26 PM
Nice selection of products and prices, and quick shipping with notification. solar charger's instructions were difficult - noticeably translated from Chinese. the load controller ended up shorting, and i can't figure out how i might reset it (every time i connect, even though it is providing voltage, it then starts flashing raplidly)
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Great for bike headlight
WriConsult
(Unknown)
12/17/2007 11:55 AM
I've finally upgraded the homebrew bike light system I started in on two years ago. The light system consists of a headlight, running lights and helmet light. This product is used in the headlight.
My primary light is a 30W Philips EnergyAdvantage (24 degree narrow flood) MR16 in an Optronics housing, driven by a 14.4V NiMH battery (4200mAh) from batteryspace.com. At this voltage I'm getting nearly 1200 lumens, in a nice broad pattern that illuminates the roadway very well, and somewhat brighter than the similar 35W bulb that I had been driving at 12V. I also stepped down from 5000mAH (C cells) to 4200 (subC cells) for this upgrade, so even with the additional cell count my new battery fits into a smaller case. After the first 10 runs or so I'm getting 80-85 minutes on a charge, plenty for my round trip commute and exactly what I would calculate based on the battery's rated capacity. My previous battery was very dependable in this manner, so I'm not surprised.
Battery is mounted in a CageRocket (thanks to this thread for the suggestion), with hole drilled in the side for a waterproof switch from batteryspace. Connectors are the very rugged "waterproof" ones from batteryspace. Unlike my v1.0 homebrew light project, which used quick-and-dirty but ugly crimp connectors, all connections on my v2.0 are soldered and shrinkwrapped.
Approximate cost to build: $140. $15 for bulb, $15 for Optronics housings, $50 for battery, $30 for charger, $10 for CageRocket, $20 for switch, connectors and miscellaneous supplies. And it blows away any commercial bike light I've seen for under $300.
This switch was also used on my previous system using a 5000mAh 12V battery in a bike water bottle. For that battery, I drilled a hole in the bottle lid for mounting the switch. Held up great through 2 years of commuting.
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Coming Soon
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